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Tuesday, September 1, 2015

Fabric Case for eRead, iPad, Laptop, Tablet, Kobo... Any Flat-ish Electronic Device. Quick and Easy Sewing Tutorial


Want something to protect you flat-ish electronic device, but you don't want one of those cases that everybody has?
Like the convenience of a laptop, tablet, or eReader, but still want a bit of that nostalgic, old-fashioned, "back in the day" touch?
Well, then make a fabric case for your flat-ish electronic device, why not?


Materials you need:
~Fabric*
~Fusible fleece**
~Thread to match***
~Pins
~Tape measure or ruler
~Fabric scissors
~The device you're making a case for
~Some sort of marking marking tool (pencil, pen, chalk, etc...) that can be removed (optional)

*The amount of fabric you need depends on the size of your device. If you're buying 45" wide fabric (which is the width of most quilter's cottons), then following these directions:
¬device length + height is 8" (20 cm) or less ~ get the width + the height of your device plus 2" (5 cm)
-device length + height is 8-18" (20-45cm) ~ two strips device width + device height + 2" (5 cm). One strip will be for the inside and one for the outside. These can be different fabric, as with the laptop case above, or the same.
**Fusible fleece is essentially a thin polyester batting or needle punch that can be ironed to fabric. It doesn't have to be fusible, but it does make the project a bit easier. This is also what is generally used inside of handmade bags. You could also use polyester fleece, although it stretches more than fusible fleece.
*** A polyester/all-purpose thread from a good brand like Guetterman or Mettler is advised.

Measure your device width and height and add 2" (5 cm) and cut a strip that length (if using two strips, cut 2 strips). This need to be as straight as possible, so if you have a rotary cutter ensemble, use that. If not, use a ruler to draw a straight line or what ever other method you find works for you.

Since I've been working in a fabric store for far too long, I actually have an uncanny ability to cut straight, so I just make little snips or marks at the beginning and end of where I want to cut and stare at the mark on the other side as I cut. Your hand will generally go wherever you're looking, but if you're not confident that you can do this pretty much exactly straight, use another method.

 You want to err on the side of the strip being too big, so if you're not confident, make your strips a bit bigger, especially if you'r working with a bigger device.


Next cut (a) strip(s) from the fusible fleece that are about 1/4" smaller on each side that your strip of fabric. Lay this strip on top of the fabric strip to make sure that it's pretty much the same all the way down the fabric. Under no circumstance should it be wider at any point and it helps the end seams not be so bulky 

If you managed to find fusible fleece, iron your fleece to your fabric making sure that the adhesive on the fleece is facing the wrong side of the fabric.
 Do this to both strips if you have two.

Now, fold it in half long-ways with right sides together, like this. you may want to pin the long sides together. I didn't, but you know your comfort levels, so you do what you gotta do.
If you have two strip, just put them together, right sides together and pin them in place.


Sew the fleece to the fabric. You want the fabric seam allowance to be about 1/2" and your fleece seam allowance to be about 1/4". If you're fabric is lining up with the side of your foot, it will probably be 1/2", but not all feet are the same. If you're unsure, check on a scrap piece of fabric and then measure. Your fleece should be about halfway between your needle and the edge of the foot/the edge of your fabric. My A foot has a notch that lets you line up your fabric at about 1/4". It's not perfectly accurate, since I don't think it was meant for that, but it works in situations like this where it doesn't need to be exact, just pretty close.

If you only have one strip, you just need to sew the two long sides. Be sure to leave the top open.
If you have two strips, sew the long sides as well as the bottom, but leave the top open. You can do this all in one go if you pivot. When you get to a corner, stop sewing 1/2" away from the edge of the fabric, put your needle down, lift your foot up and turn the fabric and put the foot down and keep on sewing.


Not perfect, but you get the idea. Should look something like this.

Now turn the whole thing inside out.

Make sure that the bottom corners  are nice an sharp. You'll probably want to utilize some sort of small object like a pen with the cap on it or a Purple Thang (TM) to poke the corners out from the inside.

Now, place your devise on top of the strip. There' should be about 1/2" + the height of your device on each side.
Fold the bottom up to where you would want it to be. I put mine about 1/2" below the top of my device, just to avoid bulkiness.

Now fold the top down and make sure that it sits where you would want it to. It's going to be about 1/2" shorter because we still have to trim it, but you should be able to know whether you need to shorten it.
Mine was quite a bit longer than I wanted it to be (I just used to whole width of the fabric, even though I knew I wouldn't need it) so I ended up cutting about 4" off.

That's better.

You may want your top flap to look like this. If you do, just fold the corners inward, and pin them in place before continuing.


I chose not to fold in the corners because I did that last time and I wanted to try something different. It was hard to fold in the corners, but I liked it better.
Either way, fold in the raw edge on the very top about 1/2" and pin it in place.

Like this. My pins are diagonal because you get more surface area that way. Makes the actual act of pinning a bit easier.

And sew it in place, being sure to remove your pins before you go over them. Also be sure that you're sewing over all four layers. You'll want to be sewing about 1/4" in from the edge of your fabric, but it need not be exact. As long as you're getting everything.


I was dumb and missed a step, so I don't have a picture of me doing this properly, but you should no attach the female end (if there is one) of whatever type of fastener you are using to the bottom flap.

Now, using your device, again fold the bottom part up to where you would want it to rest on top of your device and pin both sides in place


And sew along these edges. Try to get as close to the edge as you can, but your machine may not be able to handle going over the quadruple seam allowance right at the edge.


Now, slide in your device and find where you want the male or other end of your fastener and attach it there. If you're using buttons or snaps, you probably want to use a hand needle and thread, like I have.

try to make the thread as unnoticeable as possible.

And there you have it! Your very own, brand new flat-ish electronic device case! Go you!





Pretty nice, if I do say so myself.

  If you have any additional questions or comments or think I missed anything or said something wrong or like my blog or hate it or quodlibet, just leave a comment.
  Or if you just wanted to comment anyways, that'd be nice, too. You know, so that it looks like my blog is super popular or whatever.

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Tuesday, June 30, 2015

Ten Step Ironing Board Cover Tutorial ~ An Easy Walk-Through for How to Recover Your Ironing Board.

Is your ironing board ugly, gross, or worn out? Or are you like me and just bought a cheap one from Walmart and now everything you iron has the pattern of the metal base firmly pressed into it?
Well, luckily for you, there's something you can do about it without throwing out your old one and it's not even hard. It just takes 10 steps.


For this project, you will need:
~cotton fabric*
~insulated/heat resistant batting**
~matching thread (preferably a cotton thread from a reliable brand like Mettler or Guetterman)
~straight pins
~cording***
~your ironing board
~fabric marker or chalk
~tape measure (potentially useful, but you can eyeball if you're confident)

*You'll need a piece that's the length and width of your ironing board + about 6" (15 cm)
**You'll need a piece that's the length and width of your ironing board + about 4" (10 cm)
***Enough for the perimeter of your ironing board plus enough to tie it (at least a foot/30 cm)

I just left my ironing board as was and added this extra cover to it because there was nothing wrong with the original ironing cover; it was just too thin and kind of ugly. You may wish to remove your original cover for whatever reason. If you do, you may be able to salvage and use the original insulator (usually looks like a foam) or you may not. If you're not keeping the old insulation, you may want to use two layers of insulated batting when making your new cover. If the old insulation is thick enough on its own, you don't need any insulated batting and can just recover with a new fabric. It's up to you.


1. Lay your ironing board face down on top of your insulated batting (shiny side down - I have it wrong in this picture, sorry :/) and trace around it, leaving an excess of about 2" all around. Cut out your batting.
2. Lay your batting on top of your fabric and trace around it, leaving an excess of about 1". Cut out your fabric.

3. Put your batting aside for a few minutes and pin a 1/2" hem around the entire perimeter of your fabric.

Should look something like this.

4. Sew your hem in place.

5. Put your batting back (shiny side facing the wrong side of your fabric), pin it in place and then sew it in place. 
Be sure to fix your stitch at the beginning and end and to take out your pins before you sew over them.

The gap between the edge of your fabric and the edge of your batting should be at least 1/2" wide. I made mine a bit larger but found that that was unnecessary although harmless.

5.5 *This step is optional* Use a ruler to draw lines every 5" or so and then sew along these lines.
This connects your fabric to your batting more securely. It's not necessary but I did it so that I could remove and wash the ironing cover in the future without having to worry about the batting coming apart. If you plan on washing your cover in a machine, you should do this, but I find most people go their whole lives without washing their ironing board covers. It's up to you.


6. Now place your cording along the edge of your batting.

7. Fold over your fabric and pin it in place.

8. Now sew down the fold. Be sure not to sew over your cord. Because of the shape of your ironing board, you may have to gather your fabric a bit. Don't worry, you won't be able to see it from the front.

9. Place your ironing board on top of your cover. (You're almost done!)

10. Tighten and tie the cord so that it fits snugly. I tied my cord to one of the metal bars on the board's frame but that may not be necessary.

And there you are! A brand new and totally unique ironing board.



I chose this fabric because it's off-white and looks antique. I figure that, as I spilled Best Press and what-have-you on the cover, it would just add to the antique look.


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Happy sewing!

Grocery Bag Holder Tutorial ~ Easy Picture Walk-Through for Making a Fabric Grocery Bag Dispenser



Do you like reusing plastic grocery bags but hate the look of that grocery bag stuffed full of other grocery bags? Yeah, me too. That's why I finally made one of these fabulous fabric grocery bag holders.

*The fabric I've used is from a Camelot line called "Wildflowers" designed by Alisse Courter*


For this project, you will need:
~fabric (I used a 20 x 25" piece of fabric, which you can get from .5 m)
~matching thread (Mettler or guetterman polyester are suggested)
~straight pins
~fabric scissors
~ribbon or cording (for tie at the top)
~1/4" elastic (1/3rd of the width of your fabric, so I have 6")
~safety pin
~sewing machine


Lay your fabric with the right side down with the shorter sides on the top and bottom.

Fold the top and bottom over about 1/2" and pin or press in place.

Now sew your hems in place.

Your top and bottom should look something like this. Neatness doesn't matter much because you won't be seeing this once the bag is finished.


Lay your ribbon out near the top. Line it up close to the raw edge of your hem (a bit closer than I have it here)

Now fold over and pin the fabric so that your previous stitch lines up with the edge of your ribbon.


Make sure both edges are folded over a bit like this so that you can't see your raw edges once the project is finished.

Now sew your hem in place. Be careful not to sew over your ribbon. I ensure this by lining up the ribbon with my previous stitch and then sewing the second hem in place along the seam of the previous hem.

Now do the same thing with the bottom except don't use ribbon. On the bottom, we're going to feed through your elastic. Your elastic length should be about 1/3rd the width of your piece of fabric. So mine is about 6" long.

Sew your hem, fasten a safety pin to one end of your elastic, and begin to feed it through your hem.

Once the other end reaches the opening of your hem, pin it in place and keep going. It'll get harder and harder as you go on, but you want there to be a lot of ruffling so that the hole at the bottom of your bag is nice and tight. Once you get to the end, pin it in place.

And then sew the ends of your elastic firmly in place with a sewing machine.

Now, fold your project in half length-wise with right sides together.

You may want to pin your ribbon at the top out of the way so that you don't have to worry about sewing over it by accident.

Using a 1/2" seam, sew along the entire length, being sure to fix your stitches at the beginning and end and to remove your pins before you sew over them.

Turn your project right-side-out, fill it with those lovely plastic grocery bags, and tie it somewhere in your house where it will be useful and aesthetically pleasing.
And there you go. :)
In case you were wondering, I didn't actually put it on my fridge. That would be a pain. My pantry (where I actually put it) is just a mess and has very bad lighting.  Not an ideal background for a photo. :P

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