I have ideas and I like to share them.

Sunday, April 27, 2014

How to Shop at a Fabric Store

  This might seem like a dumb blog post, but I really feel like it's necessary. I've been working at a fabric store for 4 years and I see the same mistakes made over and over. I'd say that most instances of people not leaving with everything they need could have been avoided by following these guidelines.
  Of course, every shopper and every shop is different, so not everything in this list will necessarily apply to you and your local fabric stores, but a large majority of it is bound to help you.
  This is mostly meant for newer sewers/quilters, but I've included some tips that would apply to both beginners and novices as well as a few notes that probably only apply to more experienced sewers/quilters.
  I've also included some rules of common fabric store courtesy near the end, just so that you don't infringe upon them unintentionally and accidentally get on the bad side of any fabric store workers.
  So, here's my list. I'll probably add to this as time goes on:

-Just remember that there's nothing wrong with being new at something. Anybody who makes fun of you or looks down on you because you're less knowledgeable than them is just being pretentious and you should ignore them. I, for one, congratulate you on your decision to enter a fabric store and try out the world of sewing/crafting/quilting.

-Keep in mind that the people serving you are people too and they're generally just trying to do their jobs. We have bad days, rules, and limitations and often, especially if you come in while it's busy, we can't give you as much time as we'd like or word our answers in the most ideal fashion.

 -Fabric and quilting shops generally close earlier than places like Wal-Mart and Best Buy. Make sure you check out the hours of any places you want to visit before going there. It's frustrating for you to not have as much time as you thought you had or to get there after they've closed. It's also super frustrating for the workers if you come in ten minutes before closing and tell us you want to make a quilt. We have two options, to stay an hour after closing for you (an hour more than we were scheduled for) or to kindly-as-possible ask you to come back when there's time for such an endeavour.

 -Try not to go in with a specific fabric in mind (unless you've seen that fabric at that store before) because you probably won't find it. I'm talking mostly about fabrics you've seen on couch cushions or that you've simply imagined. There's essentially no chance you'll find that exact fabric. If you saw a fabric on the internet that you want, don't just try to describe it to us. Pictures on phones of what it looks like are the most helpful, but designer and line names are also useful. Keep in mind that it's fairly likely that the store won't have it, especially if it's a smaller store. Don't get hung up on that one fabric. Fabric stores have tons of gorgeous stuff. It's hard not to find something that will work or that you will like.

-Always buy extra! For example, if you need 5 2.5" strips, don't request exactly 12.5," especially if you're a beginner. This is partially in case you make mistakes in your cutting or made mistakes in your measuring, but also in case the fabric store worker has cut your fabric crooked. If it's a quilting store, they probably use a rotary cutter to cut the fabric and it'll usually be pretty straight, but especially if they use scissors, your edges aren't always going to be straight. If you realize later that you don't have enough fabric, the store might not have more when you go back.

- Try to make time for your project. Especially if you're not practiced at picking things out or you know you have a more particular taste or project, try to make lots of time. You save yourself a lot of time and stress if you can just get it done in one trip. You're also less likely to be confident in your decisions and your cutting instructions when you're in a rush. If you're taking the time and spending the money to make your project from scratch, you can take the time to make sure you're alert and focused when you're picking the fabric.

-Come with as few distractions as possible. I'm talking about being in the middle of planning a family gathering over the phone, bringing your whiny husband along and, probably the most common, bringing your kids along. Every kid is different and some of them are fine, but some kids are completely counterproductive to your project. Not only are they often stressful and distracting for you, but you also run the risk of having to pay for things that they destroy or having to help us clean up their messes. This also depends on your project. If you're just looking for one fabric and you don't expect it to be terribly difficult, you can get away with more distractions. If you have a cranky baby and 2-year-old twins, however, you're probably not going to be able to compile the fabric for a queen-size quilt, especially if you're new or you've never been to the store before. I'd say about half the women who come in with small children and no other adults go home empty handed. Of course, I'm not the boss of you and you know your limitations and your children better than I do, but just from what I see, a lot of mothers over-estimate their fabric-picking capabilities when they're holding a crying child.

-Try not to over-think things. You need to find a balance between not thinking your purchase through and spending twenty minutes trying to decide which shade of lavender you should use for the lilacs in your applique wall hanger for which you only need .1 metres. So, be careful, but don't insist on looking for another hour after you've found something that works. You have no idea how often I've helped a customer put together fabrics that went together really well only to have them try switching out half the store into the project only to end up with the exact same thing in the end or to just stress themselves out and leave with nothing. This is super annoying for the workers, who have spent an hour with you and have to put away the huge mess you've made, but it's also not productive for you. Try to have an open mind and think objectively. Don't get caught up in little details about the fabrics, because in my experience, most of them don't actually end up interfering with the end product. The only quilts I have ever seen that turn out poorly are ones that were improperly put together or in which the quilter really did just pick random fabrics and put them together and usually, those are just scrappy quilts and that's kind of the point.

-Go ahead and ask for help. Don't get frustrated  if nobody asks you if you need help. There are plenty of innocent reasons for a worker not to ask you if you need anything. Ideally, we like to talk, however briefly, with everybody that walks into the store, but it just doesn't happen sometimes for whatever reason. Some stores just don't pressure their staff to talk to customers that much or sometimes a staff member is new, shy or (in my case) has terrible facial recognition and all middle-aged ladies and hipster moms look the same to me and I'm scared to ask the same person twice if they need help. If you have a question or need help, go ahead and ask. However dumb you think your question is, I will bet you there have been far dumber. And regardless of whether your question is "dumb" or not, it's bothering you or impeding your ability to proceed with your project, so you need to get it sorted out one way or another. The more educated you are about sewing, the better your project will turn out. Also, I generally don't judge people for "dumb" questions because, as stated in my first point, I think it's pretentious to look down on somebody for not knowing something you know when it comes to non-common knowledge stuff like quilting or sewing. Maybe I know more about sewing than you, but maybe you didn't have regular mental breakdowns in physics 20 because you suck at physics. We all have our areas of ignorance and expertise and I think it's great whenever anybody tries to learn more about something.

 -Know the difference between a cash register and a cutting table. Some stores will have them right next to each other, but some will have a central register and cutting tables throughout the store. If you bring fabric to be cut to the cash register, you run the risk of us not noticing you or just thinking that you're still looking around. If you want your fabric cut, go to the cutting table or ask a worker what to do. Cutting tables require quite a bit of room and are pretty noticeable. Unlike a register table, they'll be quite large and will have a ruler/tape measure on the side.

-Ask about minimum cut requirements. A minimum cut refers to the smallest amount of fabric you can buy. Some stores will have rules about the amounts of fabric you can buy. The store I work at will let you buy pretty much whatever you want with a minimum cut of .1 metres (about 4"), but we're pretty unique in that department. It's not uncommon for a store to only let you buy in increments of .25, .5 or even 1 metres/yards. It's good to know this ahead of time because it might impact the amounts you're getting. For example, if you know that you need 23 inches, the worker may not be able to cut you 23 inches, or know exactly what that is in metres or yards. They can however cut you 2/3 yards or .6 metres (which is 24 inches).

 -The more prepared you are, the better. If you're matching to a certain fabric or unfinished project, bring it. We can't help you if you just say "I'm looking for something to match my quilt that's at home" because we don't know what your quilt looks like. Describing it to us doesn't help much because language is extremely subjective. Words like "modern" or "turquoise" probably mean slightly different things to you than they do to me and again something totally different to the next customer who uses the same words. Generally, people seem to overestimate their ability to remember colours. You'll think you know the shade of yellow in your quilt like the back of your hand, but as soon as you look at the yellow section of the store, that shade is out the window. I can't even remember the exact shade of a colour walking from one side of the store to another. I usually need the fabric I'm matching it to with me the whole time, or at least having it helps a lot.
  If you have a pattern, bring it. If you just say "I'm making a dress. How much fabric do I need?" we won't be able to help you because dresses can take anywhere from 1-15 metres of fabric. That's like going into a hardware store and saying "I'm dry walling a room. How much dry wall do I need?" If you don't have the requirements, we'll just be making educated guesses and (sorry, but...) it's your own problem if you don't get the right amount of fabric.
  It has become very popular lately to not buy patterns and instead come up with your own, just go off of a picture you saw somewhere or use internet tutorials. If you're doing this, please figure out as much of the math as you can beforehand and bring it with you. If it's a really simple project, we can sometimes figure out how much you need, but often we simply can't know. It's not because we're incompetent or because we don't feel like it; it's because it would potentially take hours or a whole day to do so and we just don't have time for that.
  Do not just show us pictures and ask "how do I make that?" Most fabric store workers actually aren't allowed to spend time trying to teach you how to sew/quilt or to spend excessive time figuring out fabric requirements. Even if there isn't a policy, it's often not possible for us to know how much fabric you need just from a picture or a description. And even if it is possible, we ain't got time for that, on the account that designing a quilt/garment require excessive amounts of know-how and sometimes several days of work. If you aren't going to spend the money on a pattern, you're risking having to figure it out on your own and/or not getting the right amount of fabric. It's unfortunate, but it's just the way it is; we can't do anything about it.
  Every store and worker is different, but you can sometimes get help figuring out some fabric requirements. Personally, I'll gladly figure out things like backing and binding (provided you know the dimensions of your quilt) or will answer questions like "How many 5 inch squares can I get out of a metre?" I will not, however, be able to give you a good answer to the question "How much fabric do I need for a queen-sized quilt top?" or "Does this match my wallpaper that I don't have with me, not even a picture?"

-Remember that we can't read your mind. If you're looking for a specific fabric, designer and line names are useful, but swatches and pictures are the best. Do not ask questions like "Where's something that I'll like" or "where's your pretty fabric." We don't know what you like, nor what you mean by "pretty." We generally don't buy "ugly" fabric, so we'll just gesture to the whole store and tell you to knock yourself out. We can direct you to different store sections and we can help you match fabric to fabric you've already picked out. You're much better at knowing what you'll like and what you want to make your project out of.

-Remember that we cannot fabricate things from sheer will. If we tell you that we don't have something, telling us about why you need it or how much you want it won't change anything. Even if it's for your dying grandmother, we can't do anything if we simply don't have the fabric/product. If you're open to using something that's not exactly what you asked for, then tell us that. In that situation, explaining your project may help us direct you to a fabric that might work. This is mostly helpful for special projects requiring unusual fabrics, like laminated cotton or canvas or some such thing. Sometimes instead of canvas you can use denim, for example.

-Especially if you're new to the game, you might not be using the right terminology, so don't get discouraged if we aren't sure what you're talking about. If you walk into a store and ask for "wool" and you actually mean wool fabric or felt, they might say no because they think you're talking about yarn. Generally, referring to a product by it's fiber content isn't preferable because it's vague. Lots of things can be made out of wool and cotton and polyester. Try learning the terminology for materials and products you need or writing them down if you think you might not remember. If you aren't sure what something is called, just try describing it to us or looking it up on the internet beforehand. We can't read your mind, but we can usually figure out what you mean.
  Reading my post of beginner tips and tid-bits might help you know some terminology.
  Even if you are using the right terminology, sometimes there are lots of different words for what you're talking about and the worker might not be familiar with the terminology you're using. Don't just use brand names unless you know from experience that that store carries that brand. For example, if you walk into a quilting store right now and ask for Steam a Seam, they're going to tell you they don't have any because that brand has been discontinued for the foreseeable future, but they will generally have other brands of applique paper (double-sided interfacing, double-stick applique paper, etc...) that will work just fine. It's helpful to know what brand you want as well as the generic name for what you're purchasing. 505 spray, for example is just a wash-away spray adhesive. A store might have wash-away spray adhesive but not have any 505. On the other hand, a worker, especially if she/he is new, might not know exactly what 505 spray is, but they'll know that they have it. Do remember that just because we might not use the same terminology as you, that we very well still may be very competent workers who know a lot about sewing and quilting.

-Don't bring food. This is just common fabric store courtesy. In fact, just avoid making messes of any kind. I think we can safely assume that no food or drink is allowed in any fabric store, so just don't bring any. If you really don't have any other option, you can ask a staff member if there's a safe place you can put your beverage/food. But be warned that even if somebody else, including a staff member, knocks it over onto fabric, you'll have to pay for it. Generally, there isn't a "no spilling food" rule, there's a "no food" rule, so it's the fault of whoever brought the food, not whoever knocked it over.

-Don't un-package things. By this, I mean that you can't take pieces of fabrics or patterns from kits. Don't unroll things that are tied up. Taking the pattern or a piece of fabric from a kit essentially makes the whole kit useless, so you may as well have stolen the amount the kit is worth from the store's register. It's not okay to do, ever.

-Don't put stuff on the cutting mat. If the fabric store has a cutting mat (and most quilting stores do) don't put fabric, your purse, your children, etc... on it. We need that for cutting. Put your fabric on the cutting table, but not on the mat. Anything put on the mat is subject to movement as well as being cut.

-Don't talk to the worker while they're do math or counting. I can either measure your 5 metres of fabric or I can figure out how much you need for binding. I can't do both at the same time. If you want coherent answers and accurate math and measuring, let us concentrate on one thing at a time and don't get mad if we don't answer your questions while we're measuring.

-Don't flip fabric up-side-down. Okay, this probably won't benefit you at all; it's just a pet peeve of mine. The selvage goes down and the end with the price on it goes up, or out or wherever it was before, which we can generally assume is where the price is most visible.

Ask about taking pictures. Taking pictures can be helpful in a lot of ways. You can go home and refer to them later or you can send them to friends and family for second opinions. But make sure you ask a staff member! Some stores have policies about taking pictures. Just remember that the exact colour/hue in the picture may not match perfectly the fabric in real life. Also remember that it is 100% completely illegal to take pictures of patterns, even if it's just the cover or the fabric requirements or a page in a magazine, without the permission of the writer of the pattern. It's also illegal to write down fabric requirements or anything from a pattern other than it's name or designer when you haven't purchased said pattern. You also aren't allowed to open patterns, generally. You'd be amazed how many people do this, but it is actually a form of stealing, similar to illegally downloading music except instead of hurting a big record-labeling company or iTunes, you're often hurting small independent store owners and pattern designers, who are often pretty regular people who probably don't make any more money than you. If you do take a picture of fabric and you post it online, be sure to mention who designed the fabric, just to be safe. I don't know of many people getting in trouble for this sort of thing, but regardless, the designers deserve credit; they're real artists and real people.

 -Don't pre-judge the workers! I frequently run into problems with people not wanting me to help them because they think I don't know what I'm talking about because I'm young. My father, co-owner of the store, also runs into the same problem because he's a (large) man. Customers will often walk right past us and go to another worker and then be upset when that worker just comes back and asks us what you've asked them. At our store, for example, I've been working there for 4+ years and I think everybody else (other than the owners) hasn't been there for more than a year. But I'm also, by far, the youngest one there. Generally, people who work at fabric stores were hired for a reason. Even if they aren't expert sewers or quilters, they'll know about the store and more-or-less where everything is. Often though, they are very good sewers and they can help you with most issues you'll have and they might not fit your expected stereotype of an expert sewer (they might be an eighteen-year-old or a 6'3" man, for example). Just assume that any worker is at least somewhat competent. They might be new or they might not know much about your particular project, but, given that they work at a fabric store, they're likely to be able to help you. Don't disregard a worker until you've seen first-hand that they're an idiot (it happens) and even then, remember that everybody has bad days as well as strengths and weaknesses and that it's impossible for everybody to know everything.

 -Don't make comments about things being cheaper online. Firstly, things online are usually in US dollars, don't include sales taxes and are per yard ( a yard is smaller than a metre), so right off the bat, they're not actually as cheap as they look. You also have to pay for shipping and any across-the-border fees and you don't have the security of seeing and feeling exactly what the fabric is like. Obviously, if you're in a store, you understand the appeal of shopping there versus online. Additionally, we can't do anything about our prices. Generally, stores, especially the small ones, actually price very fairly. If you prefer shopping online, that's fine, but there's no need to needlessly criticize innocent staff about it.

 -Don't fall for sleazy sales tricks! If a store regularly offers its fabric at 50% off, you know they're at least doubling the suggested retail price. Don't look at the percentage off when comparing prices between fabrics and stores, look at the actual price. Some stores (like mine) just have everything at a fair price all the time while some stores will have ridiculously high prices most of the time but put on ridiculously appealing sales every once in a while. Don't be tricked by this and don't complain to a worker if their store doesn't have regular half-off sales, because that probably means that their products are just priced fairly on a regular basis. Also, if you're in our store, you're generally not legitimately there to just let us know that that "other" shop is superior. You're here because that other shop didn't do it for you and there's something that makes our store worth visiting.


  Well, that's all I can think of for now. I'm likely to think of more and add to this list as time goes on. If you have any questions or comments, leave a comment!

 If you're a beginner sewing or quilter, read my post on things beginner sewers and quilters should know.

  If you like what you've read here, check out my other blog posts as well as any of the other social networking nonsense I'm trying to get the hang of:

Wednesday, April 23, 2014

Super-Easy 10 Minute Infinity Scarf!





Want a shabby chic and fabulous scarf, but you don't want to pay $25+ from a store?
Or do you have difficulty finding exactly what you want in stores?
Well this is the scarf tutorial for you!
It only takes about 10 minutes to make and depending on what kind of fabric you get and from where, you can make it very inexpensively. Plus you get to choose your size and material.

All you need are:
-fabric scissors
-potentially a tape measure
-pins
-sewing machine
-a non-fray fabric* such as jersey knit or nylon tricot **

*  If you wish to use a fabric that frays, you will have to serge the edges if you don't want it to fray. This is not included in the 10 minutes. If your fabric frays and you want it to fray, that's fine, but remember that it will continue to fray over time, especially if it gets washed. If you want to slow down this process, you can sew a small zig-zag stitch along where you want the fraying to stop and/or use fray check along that same line. You can use a straight stitch instead of a zig-zag stitch if you want it to be less noticeable, but it might not work as well.
** You can make the scarf pretty much whatever size you want, but the scarf shown in the pictures is made from a 40" x 60" piece, which is about a metre of any 60" wide fabric. The material used here is bamboo jersey knit which is particularly thin (and soft... and expensive), so if you're using a thicker material, it'll look bulkier, which isn't necessarily a bad thing. Just go with whatever measurements you think will look the best or with whatever you can get. :)

Put first things first and cut off the selvage of you fabric. The selvage is on the very edge and will look different than the rest of the fabric. Sometimes there will be traces of an adhesive used or small holes where something has clamped down on the fabric.
  Then make sure that the shorter edges of your fabric are the same length. If your fabric has stripes, just follow the stripes and they usually won't lead you astray. If your fabric doesn't have stripes, use your tap measure to make the appropriate markings and cut off any excess.

 Now fold you fabric in half the short way (hamburger style with the shorter ends together) If you're using the same size of piece as me, your fabric should be about 40" x 30". Pin the two short ends together.


 Make sure that any stripes or plaids on your fabric are lining up.


Now sew along the pinned edge and you're done! 
Don't forget to fix your stitch at the beginning and end and to pull out the pins before they got under the machine's foot.
Make sure the ends are still matching up. If they aren't, just trim them with your scissors.
See! That was probably the easiest thing you've ever made!


Casually not including my face in the picture. (I usually blog on my days off)


If you want your scarf not to have any raw edges showing, then check out my other infinity scarf tutorial here.

If you like what you see here, check out my other blog posts or any of the other social networking nonsense I'm attempting to be good at:

And a special mention to my Etsy Shop, where you can see and potentially buy my amazing products. :)

If you have any questions, leave a comment. You'll make my blog seem poplar (and you'll get an answer to your question).

Saturday, April 19, 2014

Introduction

  I suppose I should have done this before I posted stuff, but I suppose it's better late than never.
  I just wanted to introduce myself and let you know what I and this blog are all about.
  I have two other blogs under this account. One was written while I was on a German exchange in high school and will not be added to unless I manage to get back to Germany again. The other contains memes from a time that I lived with my sister and her weirdo family. I may consider adding more to this, if I so desire, but I wouldn't hold my breath if I were you. Basically, these other blogs have nothing to do with this blog and you don't have to look at them if you don't want to.
  I'm twenty as of May 17, 2014. I'm a newly wed as of last July and I'm a university student getting a combined bachelor's degree in English (with a minor in German) and Education as of the fall of 2012. My parents have owned a fabric store since I was about twelve and even before then my mother was an avid sewer and quilter, so I've been around a lot of both. I don't have as much time during the semester to spend on sewing as I'd like, but during the summer I go crazy doing all the projects I've been concocting in my brain but haven't gotten the chance to do, which is the craziness under which I have started this blog. Holy run-on sentence, Batman.
  I've got so many projects lined up, most of which will be my own inventions and I'll let you in on any of the interesting ones. I'll also post pictures of any projects I make even if I used somebody else's pattern, but it's illegal for me to give you fabric requirements or instructions and I'm legally obliged to advertise whose pattern and fabric I've used.
  I have an Etsy shop, which is mostly full of scarves. Check it out or we're not friends.

  I'm a typical Netflix generationer. That's what I call millennials. This basically means that I'm an "anti-social" misanthrope who liked everything before it was cool and gets agoraphobic whenever I don't have an internet connection. My spirit animal is Grumpy Cat and I have what I'm going to call sass, for lack of a better word. You'll probably figure out what I mean if you stick around. You might see a bit of this in my next post, which is on what not to do in a fabric store.

  Anyways, I'm a cool person and you're probably alright and I think you should follow my blog because I'm great. Although it might not seem like it right now, I don't plan on having many text-only posts. I'm thinking mostly tutorials or craft/sewing/quilting ideas and projects. Obviously, I have much more time in the summer than during the semester, so my posts will probably be more frequent. I'll try to maybe stock up on posts during the summer to get me through the winter or some such thing. We'll see how this works out. My first tutorial took much longer to make than I expected, but I expect with the learning curve, I'll get more proficient at it and will be able to make quite a few.

 I hope you enjoy. Comment if you have any comments or questions.

Friday, April 18, 2014

Simple and Trendy Infinity Scarf How-To Picture Tutorial



Ever look at all those gorgeous quilter's cottons and wish you could make a scarf out of them because of all the awesome designs? Well, I do. In addition to making infinity scarves from knits and dress fabrics, you can also make them from quilter's cotton - and lots of other fabrics too for that matter.
This scarf is great for the spring and summer because cotton is nice and light and breathable. I know I get so used to putting together presentable outfits when it's cold that during the 4 or so months that it's warm I don't really know what to do with myself. This scarf is a great way for looking fabulous in warm weather. 

To see more Infinity scarves by me, go to my Etsy shop, Christi's Corner.



What you need:
-Pins
-Fabric scissors
-2 metres/yards of fabrics
-thread ~ it doesn't have to match your fabric exactly, but it shouldn't contrast it.
-sewing machine
-hand sewing needle (if you don't have any, run down to the store and get a pack of assorted "sharps;" they're super handy. You won't realize until you have them how often you use them to fix random things.

 ~ Pay attention to whether the print on your fabric is directional. If the stripes are horizontal (parallel to the selvage) then your stripes will be running vertically when you're wearing it, which some people don't like.

2 metres/yards with make you two  10"x 80"/10" x 72" scarves, or one scarf and a large 21"x 80/21" x 72" remnant. You can make two scarves or you can use the left over for something else. You can get a lot of quilt squares out of this, or you can make a laptop/Ereader case (a tutorial I don't have up yet, but it's on my list), or whatever you want; it's your fabric and your life.

You can, of course, make variations to size if you want. I quite like the 2 metre length because it can be wrapped around 2 or 3 times for two different looks. Kind of like having 2 scarves in 1.

I included the tape measure in the picture for some reason, but the way I do it, you don't really need one. I usually just have a tape measure nearby whenever I'm sewing in case I need to tape measure something.

Of course, you could also use a rotary cutter instead of scissors, but if you own a rotary cutter, I'll assume you know how to use it. Maybe I'll make a beginner's guide to rotary cutting some day. Yeah sure, why not?


This tutorial features this lovely fabric by Joel Dewberry.


First thing you should always do is cut off the selvage. I know a lot of people include it, but you really really shouldn't. The selvage is where the machine has clamped down onto the fabric for printing or dyeing and it is made out of different stuff than the body of the fabric. If you include it, even just in your seams, your seam will shrink in the wash and cause your seams to pucker.


Sometime the selvage is easy to spot, but sometimes less so. Tell-tale sign of a selvage are variations is colour and grain as well as these little holes. Make sure you cut off the whole selvage on both sides.



Now you need to cut your fabric in half length-wise. I find it easiest to lay the fabric out like this, with the raw edges to the left and the fold to the right. If you're left-handed, this set up will be the reverse.


As long as your raw edges are more-or-less matched up (they usually are), you can just cut along the fold all the way down like in the picture. If your edges aren't matched up, match them up and cut along the new fold, which will be the proper half-way point.


You should end up with two pieces about 21" x 80" (21" x 72" if you got yards). Each piece is large enough to make a scarf. If you're only making one scarf, fold up one piece (to minimalize wrinkling) and put it away for later.


Lay one piece out like this, hamburger style, so to speak, with the right side up.


Now fold your right sides together so that the wrong side is showing and the raw edges are at the top.


Now, starting from about 4" from the edge, start to pin the raw edges together. Some people prefer not to pin and that's fine. Cotton is fairly easy to keep in place without pins. If you're using anything other than a cotton, like a knit or satin, you'll definitely want to pin.


And keep on pinning until you get to 4" from the other side. My pins look about 4" apart from each other, but you might prefer something else. When I first started making infinity scarves, I tended to pin too much.


Now check each end. If the two raw edges aren't line up, you'll have to straighten them out to avoid puckering in the last step.


Like this.


You should now have a long piece about 10.5" x 80" (or 72" if you're using yards) with pins down one side.


I'm using white thread for this because that's what I had. Your thread colour doesn't matter too much. The machine sewing won't be visible at all and the hand sewing that's coming up will barely be visible. Just don't pick anything that starkly contrasts your fabric.


Now start sewing! Start about 4" from the edge. Make sure you fix your stitch. If your machine doesn't have a "fix" button (most don't) then just reverse back a stitch or two before you begin sewing. Be sure to take your pins out as you go along. Use about a 1/2" seam. I usually make it just a tad bigger, as you can see in the picture just so that I don't have to worry if the bottom layer slips to the left a little bit.


And keep on going until you're about 4" away from the end. Fix your stitch and then remove your scarf from the machine. 


Next, because cotton frays, we need to zigzag stitch the sides. If you have a serger, you can use that, but I find it easier to just use the zigzag stitch on my machine. This seam won't be visible, so it doesn't matter how it looks. There should be a zigzag stitch button on your machine that looks like a little zigzag. Third from the top in this picture.


You may want to change the stitch width and length. This stitch doesn't need to be very wide, so you can make it thinner to save time and thread. The button on the left changes the width and the button on the right changes the length.


Now you need to zigzag stitch in between your previous stitch and the fabric edge. Don't forget to fix your stitch!


Should look something like this. Upon further reflection, I probably should have made the zigzag closer to the fabric edge and a bit shorter, but this will suffice just finely.


Now snip all your loose threads.
This was an incredibly awkward picture to take on my large-ish camera with only my left hand.


Now you should have a long tube that you can stick your arm through. So stick your arm through it, bunching up the fabric until your hand comes out the other end.


My husband walked in just as I was taking this picture. Ugh. I'm so strange.


Now grab that end and pull it through. In this picture, I'm pulling from left to right.


Until your tube is right-side out.


Now put the two far ends of the scarf together. If you want your scarf to have a twist in it, now is the time to add it. If you don't want a twist (which is what I've done and prefer) then make sure it hasn't twisted at all.


Line them up as well as you can and start to sew. Don't forget to fix your stitch! I don't use pins here, even if I'm working with a more difficult fabric because I find it's more trouble that it's worth and I just get poked a lot anyways.



You should end up with something that looks like this.


You'll have to zigzag stitch again.


Now stuff the little fan that's sticking out inside the scarf.


And you should end up with a totally sewn scarf with a little hole. You can try it on now. Besides this little hole, it'll look completely finished.


Now comes the part that some people dread but really really isn't that bad; the hand-sewing. Since I sell infinity scarves, I'll often make ten at the time and I love to do all the machine sewing and then watch some Netflix while I do the hand sewing. It's nice and relaxing. It might take a bit of practice to get really good at it, but it's really not that hard, nor are any mistakes you make nearly as noticeable as you might think they are.
 For hand sewing with quilter's cotton, I suggest a small sharp needle. A quilting needle will work, but I find those dumb things so small and hard to thread and they're not necessary.
To get your thread, hold the spool by your left shoulder and pull the end with your right hand. After you've stretched out your arm, cut the thread near the spool.


Now thread your thread through the needle's eye and equal out the two sides. Now tie two knots, one over the other so that you have one large knot. 


Now fold each edge over about the same size as your seam and hold it in place with your non-dominant hand. You can use binding clips here if you have them and are used to them, but it's not necessary.


You're about to sew an invisible stitch. If you've ever hand sewn on binding for a quilt, this is very similar. Easiest thing to do is just look at the pictures.



I suggest starting in the middle so that your seams end up aligned and then going out to the side and then to the other side and then back to the middle so that you've gone over everything twice. Keep your stitch length relatively small. You don't want to be able to see holes in between stitches if you pull it.
Make sure not to pull too tightly, but not too loosely. You shouldn't be able to see the thread, but the fabric shouldn't be puckering.


Once you're done, you'll have to knot off the thread. Do at least two double knots. The way I've done it in the picture leaves the knot visible. This is so that you could see what I was doing. You can make the knot invisible as well, but even if the knot is visible, it's pretty hard to spot, especially if your thread matches well. 




Don't forget to snip that thread. 


It should look something like this in the end. If you have a few threads showing here and there, don't worry about it; it's not noticeable.




And there is your beautiful finished scarf.  Congrats and enjoy. :)

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