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Monday, May 19, 2014

Quick, Easy and Cute Elastic Waist Pencil Skirt Tutorial


If you're like me and you have difficulty finding skirts that fit properly or you just like to save money or make your own clothes, then you might be interested in this tutorial for a super easy but cute pencil skirt.

 Materials Needed:
~Fabric scissors
~Pins
~Fabric*
~Elastic**
~Matching thread***
~A fabric marking pen/chalk/pencil

*This is for 60" wide fabric and if you want the skirt to extend from your waist to your knees. If you want it to be shorter, a different width of fabric could work. The fabric width needs to be the distance from where you want the top of the skirt to be to where you want the bottom of the skirt to be plus 4" times 2.
If you're using 60" wide fabric and you want your skirt to be 26" long or less, then you will need to measure the widest part of your body between the top and bottom of the skirt (probably your hips). Whatever that measurement is, add about 4" and that's how many inches of fabric you need. If you want your skirt to be longer, you will need to get that measurement twice.
As for type of fabric, it's up to you. I've used a suiting fabric, but twill and spandex work great too. If you're using a really stretchy fabric like jersey knit or some spandexes, then the elastic isn't necessary.
**For elastic, you need whatever the distance around where you want the top of the skirt to be. I've used 1" wide elastic. If you want it to be different, this will change the length of the skirt.
***Your thread should match exactly. If you serge your raw seams, you should also have matching serger thread. The closer this matches, the better, but it need not be exact.

These instructions assume that you're using 60" wide fabric and want your skirt to be about 26" long.

Lay your fabric out and cut it along the seam at the top. If you have a skirt that you already like the size and shape of, you can lay it out on top and trace the shape of it. The only difference will be that you will want the top to be the same width as the widest part of the skirt.
If you don't have a skirt you like - which would explain why you're here - then follow these instructions:
Measure and write down the measurements of the widest part of your hips as well as the distance between this widest part and where you want the top of your skirt to be. You want the distance from the top of the fabric to be this same distance plus 2". Mark where your hips will be on the fabric and draw a line straight upward from there to the top of the fabric.
What you do from here depends on what you want the skirt to look like. What I did is made the bottom of the skirt about 2" smaller than the hips. You may want it to go straight down or even flare out a bit. Remember that if this shape doesn't work, you can change it later, but it's much easier to make it smaller rather than larger once it's been sewn.
If  you want it to be smaller than what I did, you'll probably want to add a slit unless the material you're using is fairly stretchy. I intend to have a tutorial on adding a slit to a dress soon.

Once you've traced the shape of your skirt, pin it in place, cut it out, and sew along the side edges. Don't forget to fix your stitches and take out the pins before you sew over them.
Turn your skirt right-side-out and try it on. Everything above your hips should be too big, but make sure that you like everything hips and down. It will also be about 4" longer than it will be finished.
If you're not happy, make appropriate alterations.
Once you're happy with the size, serge the edges. I've just done a tight zig-zag stitch on my sewing machine instead because this skirt is just for me and I didn't feel like threading the serger. Your machine may also have an overcast stitch which is better than a zig-zag stitch. It basically does what a serger does, just way more slowly. Check your owner's manual/stitch list.


Now, you will need to attach the elastic. Turn the top edge over about 1/2" and pin it in place.


  And now sew it in place. Don't forget to pull out your pins before they go under your foot and to fix your stitch at the beginning and end. Try to end up in the same place as you started so that it looks like one continuous stitch.


It should look something like this. Make sure your seams are lying flat.


Now fold this seam over your elastic. The stitch you've already sewn should approximately line up with the edge of the elastic. Pin this fold in place.
And sew the fold in place somewhere in between the stitch you've already sewn and the edge of the fold. Be sure not to sew over the elastic. Start sewing near the elastic ends and stop sewing about 3" before you've sewn all the way around.
Don't forget to fix your stitches and remove your pins before you sew over them.


Through the hole you've left, pull the two ends of the elastic out enough for you to sew them together, laying flat on top of one another

This elastic is ribbed, which helps keep it from folding over and twisting after it's been sewn in. Keep an eye out for it.


Make sure to sew this really securely. I would suggest straight and zig-zag stitches in at least two different places to make sure it's really secure.
Try your skirt on to make sure it fits. Other than being a few inches too long, it should fit normally now. If it's too loose, then make your elastic shorter and resew it.
Once you're happy with the elastic, feed it back into the hem and sew the hole shut.

Try on the skirt. It should be about 2" longer than you want it to be. If it's too short, then there's not much you can do. You can make the hem a bit smaller, but that won't make much of a difference. The best thing to do would probably be to add some sort of trim such as lace to make it longer.
If it's too long, then just make your hem larger.


Now to hem the bottom of your skirt. Fold the edge over about 1/2" and pin in place. After that's done, fold the edge over about 1.5" and pin it in place again.
You'll typically want to press this hem in place before, and if not after, sewing it, but I've already sewn with this fabric and happen to know that it doesn't press or wrinkle at all, which I don't mind. If you're working with such a fabric, then pressing will be unnecessary.


Typically, I like to machine sew the hem in place, but my perfect thread ran out just as I got to this point. Another option is to hand sew your hem in place as seen in this pic. The hand sewing method makes the thread less visible.


The hand sewing method will look something like this when it's done.
If your machine has a blind hem stitch, that will do basically the same thing. Consult your owner's manual, if you're not sure.


And now you've got yourself a fabulous skirt! Congrats and thanks for reading my tutorial.
If you have any questions or comments or what-have-you, leave a comment in the comment section. You'll get a response and my blog will look more popular, so do it.

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